Planning a road trip in Hokkaido that’s beyond the tourist spots like Sapporo, Otaru, or Furano? Then this 5-day self-drive itinerary through Eastern Hokkaido is for you!
I grew up in this region. It’s wild, rural, and full of beautiful nature. Not many international travelers make it out this far. That’s what makes it special.
This itinerary is for nature lovers who want to experience the real Hokkaido, like national parks, hot springs, volcanoes, and wildlife.
I included many of my favorite spots that I take my friends to when they visit me.
Let’s get started!
This post contains affiliate links that at no additional cost to you, I may earn a small commission to enjoy a cup of coffee on my trip☕
5-Day Itinerary Overview
This 5-day Eastern Hokkaido itinerary is perfect if you love nature and rural roads.
You’ll see ocean cliffs, lakes, a volcano, wild animals, hot springs and more, covering three national parks: Shiretoko, Akan-Mashu, and Kushiro Shitsugen National Parks.
You’ll be driving from Memanbetsu Airport to Kushiro Airport, so make sure to book a rental car with a different drop-off location.
Summer is great for this itinerary, but it also works well in spring and autumn.
- Rentalcars.com - Compare prices of well-known companies that are familiar with international travelers.
- Klook - Find local companies. Some offer great deals!
Find your rental car here
Rentalcars.com - Compare prices of well-known companies. A great platform if you want a company that’s familiar with international travelers.
Klook - Find local companies (Some offer great deals!).
Day 1: Head to Shiretoko
Your road trip begins at Memanbetsu Airport.
Pick up your rental car and drive toward Utoro, a quiet port town on the Shiretoko Peninsula.
Shiretoko is known for its beautiful coastlines, waterfalls, and rich wildlife, including brown bears. It’s one of the wildest and most untouched places in Japan!
It takes about 1.5 hours if you go directly, but I’ll suggest a few of my favorite stops along the way below. With breaks, plan for a 2.5 to 3-hour drive.
Drive along the coast
Google Maps might suggest a shorter route that go through in-land, but I recommend taking the coastal route, which is just 10 minutes longer. The ocean views make it worth it!
Uminoba Cafe: This little cafe is one of my favorite stops. It’s cozy and stylish, perfect for a quick coffee break. You’ll find snacks, drinks made with local ingredients, and a great selection of local souvenirs.
Koshimizu Nature Reserve: Between the Sea of Okhotsk and Lake Tofutsu, this narrow stretch of sand dune is covered in wildflowers from late April to September. Over 200 plant species bloom here. The best time to visit is between mid-June and late July.
Stop at the “Road to Heaven”
Before reaching the Shiretoko Peninsula, make a short detour to this unique photo spot!
It’s called the “Road to Heaven”, because this straight road looks like leading into the sky when you look at it from one end. It’s a popular photogenic spot.
There’s a small parking area that fits about 10 cars. Cars come and go quickly (just to take a photo), so you usually won’t have to wait long, even if the parking is full.
Where to stay in Shiretoko
- Kita Kobushi Shiretoko Hotel & Resort
⭐4 stars, ♨️Hot Spring, 👀 Beautiful View
Located right in front of Utoro Port, offering deluxe room options with a private open-air hot spring. - Sekka Shiretoko
⭐3 stars, ♨️Hot Spring, 🧡Amazing Hospitality
A small family-run inn where the warm-hearted owner chef is committed to make homemade food with fresh local ingredients. - Hotel Kifu Club Shiretoko
⭐4 stars, ♨️Hot Spring, 🛁Private Onsen, 🍴Great Meals
A cozy family-run onsen hotel with an ocean view.
A view on the Shiretoko five-lake trail
Day 2: Shiretoko
Time to dive into nature today! Shiretoko is one of the wildest and most beautiful places in Hokkaido.
To fully enjoy it, I recommend booking tours in advance. One in the morning, another in the afternoon works best.
Shiretoko Five Lake Trail
This is the must-do experience in Shiretoko.
You’ll walk through untouched forest, with views of calm lakes and the Shiretoko mountain range. The area is home to wild brown bears, so safety rules apply depending on the season.
There are three trail options:
Protected Walkway (1.6 km round trip)
Easy walk on an elevated wooden path. Passes just the first lake. No guide needed. Open year-round.
Small Loop Route (1.6 km)
Forest trail with views of two lakes. Guided tour required from May to July. From August to November, you can walk it yourself after a short safety lecture at the Shiretoko Nature Center.
Big Loop Route (3 km)
Best option if you want to see all five lakes. Same safety rules as the small loop.
More info here: Official Website
Nature Cruise
Another activity that I love in Shiretoko is Nature Cruise.
The cruise takes you along the Shiretoko coastline. You’ll see waterfalls, tall cliffs, and hidden coves you can’t reach by car.
In summer, you have about an 80% chance of seeing wildlife like dolphins and brown bears. Once I saw a pack of dolphins swimming beside the boat!
The crew is great at spotting animals from far away and will tell you where to look so you don’t miss them.
These are the dolphins I saw! Photo taken by me in July 2022.
Climb Oronko Rock
This huge rock stands by Utoro Port. It’s about 60 meters tall, and you can climb to the top using stairs!
At the summit, you’ll get a wide view of the Sea of Okhotsk and the mountains. There’s also a wooden path at the top for a short walk.
The stairs are steep but sturdy, so wear good walking shoes.
This is a great short activity as it takes just an hour. It’s perfect before hotel check-in or after check-out, whenever you have extra time. There’s free parking and public restrooms right by the rock.
Stay overnight in Utoro
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Day 3: Lake Kussharo & Lake Mashu
The Lake Kussharo & Lake Mashu area is a volcanic lake region surrounded by scenic drives, hot springs, and nature spots.
It’s about a 2-hour drive from Utoro to the Lake Kussharo area.
I recommend staying near Lake Kussharo for the night. You can also stay in Lake Akan (about one hour away) to save time for the next day, especially if you decide to skip Bihoro Pass in the morning.
A view from Lake Mashu Observatory No.1 on a clear sunny day
Lake Mashu Observatory
Lake Mashu is called the clearest lake in Japan. You can’t walk down to the water as it’s surrounded by steep cliffs, but the views from above are magical.
Just be warned... this lake is a bit shy. It often hides behind fog, which is why it’s also known as “Foggy Mashu.” On a clear day, the deep blue color will take your breath away!
There are two main observatories:
Observatory No.1 is the most popular one with a cafe, visitor center, and rest area called Kamuy Terrace. It’s open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm. Parking is 500 JPY.
Observatory No.3 offers a slightly different angle from a higher elevation. It’s also 10 minutes closer if you’re coming from Utoro. The parking lot is small but free.
Mount Io
Just 30 minutes from Lake Mashu, you’ll reach Mount Io, an active volcano bursting with geothermal activity.
You can see steam rising from sulfur vents. It’s one of the few places where you can get this close to a live volcano without hiking for hours.
While you’re here, don’t miss the hot spring eggs sold here! They’re steamed in the local spring water, giving them a slightly sulfuric flavor that locals (including me!) love.
You can try them at the on-site cafe, MOKMOK Base, which also has a small exhibit about the volcano.
INFORMATION
Open 24 hours, MOKMOK Base: 8:30 am - 5 am
Admission free
Parking: 500 JPY from May to October (free from November to April)
Sunayu
From Mount Io, drive 15 minutes to Sunayu, a quirky lakeside spot where warm spring water bubbles up from under the sand.
If you dig a shallow hole, warm water comes up! It’s a fun, natural foot bath. And no need to get messy either. There’s a ready-made ashiyu (foot bath) right by the lake where you can just sit and soak your feet.
It’s a favorite for families and kids. I used to love it when I was little, and I still stop by every time I visit.
INFORMATION
Open 24 hours
Admission free
My dad digging a little onsen on the Sunayu lakeside beach
Wakoto Peninsula
Finish the day with a peaceful walk around Wakoto Peninsula, a small landform that stretches into Lake Kussharo. It’s about a 20-minute drive from Sunayu.
There’s an easy trail that circles the peninsula, about 2.5 km long and takes an hour. Along the way, you’ll find an outdoor hot spring, a lakeside shrine, and quiet spots to enjoy the view. Check out this map for the route.
INFORMATION
Open 24 hours
Admission free
Free parking available
Where to stay near Lake Kussharo and Lake Mashu
- Kussharo Prince Hotel
⭐4 stars, ♨️Hot Spring, 👀 Beautiful View
A long-established hotel with lake-viewing onsen. - Kawayu Kanko Hotel
⭐3 stars, ♨️Hot Spring
A local hotel known for its high-quality natural hot spring, serving local cuisine dining. - Pension Polaris
⭐2 stars, 🍴Local Ingredients, 🧡Amazing Hospitality
A cozy lodge-style accommodation near Lake Mashu, offering a beautiful stargazing location.
Day 4: Akan
Akan is a cozy onsen town right next to Lake Akan.
This area is also home to the biggest community of Ainu, the indigenous people of Hokkaido. You’ll find their traditional crafts, museums, and a peaceful atmosphere all around the lake.
Akan is my favorite spot for a weekend escape. I like staying in a lakeside onsen hotel just to relax. I also love that many hotels here serve buffet meals using local ingredients. Hope you enjoy it too!
A panoramic view of Lake Kussharo from the Bihoro Pass lookout
Bihoro Pass (optional)
If the weather is nice, start your day early with a trip to Bihoro Pass. Driving there takes a little bit of mountain roads, but you’ll be rewarded with the best panoramic views of Lake Kussharo!
If you can come at sunrise in summer, you might catch the mystical sea of clouds above the lake. It happens 50% chance, depending on the weather.
There’s a large parking area, and it’s just a 5-minute walk up paved stairs to the lookout point. You’ll also find public bathrooms, a cafe, and souvenir shop here. Please try potato mochi, it’s one of my favorite local snacks!
INFORMATION
Open 24 hours
Admission free
Access: 30 mins from Bihoro and Memambetsu Airport, one hour from Kitami and Abashiri by car.
Ainu Kotan: Ainu Village
From Bihoro Pass, Akan onsen town is about a 1 hour 15 min drive away. Check in at your hotel and leave your car there. The town is small and walkable.
Just a short walk from the town center, you’ll find Ainu Kotan, a small Ainu village.
There are shops selling handcrafted woodwork and traditional textiles, and a museum and cultural theater where you can learn about the Ainu culture. It’s a great place to connect with local heritage.
Lake Akan
Lake Akan Cruise
Next, let’s hop on a scenic ferry ride across Lake Akan!
The cruise includes a stop at Chuurui Island, where you’ll get to see marimo (round, green algae balls that grow in the lake). Some marimo here reach 20 to 30 cm, which is much larger than anywhere else in the world.
These fuzzy green balls are a symbol of the area, and you’ll find marimo-themed souvenirs everywhere—snacks, keychains, even socks!
The cruise is for 85 minutes, including the 15-min stop at Chuurui Island. It costs 2,400 yen and departs multiple times a day. Reservation is not required.
Bokke Walk
Take a short nature walk to see something unique here: Bokke, or boiling mud springs!
The word comes from the Ainu language, and these bubbling spots are caused by geothermal activity in the area.
The loop path is 1.5 km and takes about 45 minutes. It starts near the ferry terminal and winds along the lakeshore before reaching the steaming mud pools. You can return the same way or loop around to the Akan Eco Museum Center. Check out the map here.
Where to stay in Akan
- Tsuruga Besso Hinanoza
⭐4 stars, 🛁Private Hot Spring, 🍷Fine Dining
All 25 rooms come with a private hot spring with a beautiful lake view. - Akan Yuku no Sato
⭐4 stars, ♨️Hot Spring, 👀 Beautiful View
A long-established hotel run by a local company, having been listed in Michelin Guide Hokkaido. - The Forest Akan Tsuruga Resort
⭐4 stars, 🍴Great Buffet, ♨️Hot Spring
A cozy lake-side onsen hotel offering delicious buffet meals with various options.
Day 5: Kushiro
It’s the final day and time to head to the southern coast!
From Lake Akan, it’s about a 1-hour drive to Kushiro, a port town on the Pacific Ocean and one of the largest cities in Eastern Hokkaido.
Red-crowned Crane Center
Before reaching Kushiro, make a stop to meet the Japanese red-crowned crane, or Tancho.
The Akan International Crane Center "Grus" is about 40 minutes from Lake Akan. It’s a research and conservation center dedicated to protecting this endangered species.
You can observe cranes up close in the outdoor area, and learn about their history and habitat inside the facility. There’s a theater, exhibits, and a reading corner.
You'll also find a restaurant, a local produce market, a drop-in hot spring, an art museum, a playground, a campground, and a tourist information center in the same area. You can easily spend a couple of hours here!
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Kushiro Shitsugen National Park
Kushiro has Japan’s largest wetland. It’s so vast that you could fit all of central Tokyo inside it!
Kushiro Shitsugen (marshland) National Park protects this massive marshland, which is home to over 200 bird species and around 40 types of mammals, including foxes, Ezo deer, and yes of course, cranes.
There are five main observatories around the park. Here are my top three picks for easy access and great views.
Keep in mind: This is a protected area. Please stay on the designated trails to help preserve the ecosystem.
This observatory has indoor exhibits and a rooftop terrace. Start a 2.5 km round-trip wooden trail here, with a satellite observatory halfway offering a wide view over the wetlands.
A great place to learn about the wildlife and seasonal changes (closed on Tuesdays). Walking paths range from 500 meters to 3 km.
Known for its panoramic view of the marsh, river, and distant mountains. This is a favorite sunset photo spot too.
Sunset at Nusamai Bridge
Let’s wrap up your trip with a view!
Kushiro’s sunset is said to be one of the most beautiful in the world. Thanks to the high humidity and its location between the sea and the marsh, the sky here glows in warm, hazy colors that melt into the horizon.
Go to Nusamai Bridge, right in the city center, for the best view. The bridge also features beautiful street lamps and statues, making it a romantic spot in the evening.
Heading Out
You can fly out from Kushiro Airport to Tokyo or Sapporo.
Or, if you're heading to Sapporo next, you can drive or take the train. Both take around four hours.
Your next steps
I hope this 5-day itinerary made you excited for your Hokkaido trip!
But I know that planning the details like transportation, hotel booking, and daily logistics can feel overwhelming, especially in rural areas.
Here’s how I can help you.
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You can explore a different part of Eastern Hokkaido in 6 days, or if you have more days, tour around Hokkaido in one week or go slowly in two weeks.
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